Day 5: Mastering France’s Roadways Without Speaking French

TECHNICAL NOTE: We have been with sketchy connection for the last two days, so we're just catching up the blog now for our Tuesday adventures. More to come about Wednesday & Thursday when we reach Paris.

Observation of the day: It’s not the car drivers you need to look out for in France, it is the motorcyclists who weave in and out of traffic at extremely high velocity. All of them seem to be clad in black, on state-of-the-art motorcycles and seem to be starring in their own private 007 movie.

VM: We set out from Amsterdam before dawn. To catch our 6:15am direct train to Paris, we ordered our Uber pick-up at 5:30am as the train station doesn’t even open until 6am, but we wanted to assure we were there right when it did. Thankfully, our final encounter with the Dutch was just as pleasant as throughout our whole stay. We had a lovely TALL, older gentleman pick us up in a beautiful Mercedes Benz and deposit us safely to the station.

Exactly at 6:15am we rolled out of the station on the hi-speed Thayls train. This is Europe’s version of a bullet train and it rocks. We stopped briefly in Rotterdam, Antwerp and Brussels before arriving at Paris’ Nord Station at 9:30am. We loved watching the fields zoom by and HM marveled at the fact that she was visiting a trio of COUNTRIES, not just states, in one morning, all within three hours. It really is too bad the U.S. didn’t maintain its train culture. It is a wonderful way to travel.

The French countryside is alive with color.

We quickly made our way to the car rental counter where a nice clerk informed us that we had been given a small Hyundai SUV as an upgrade rather than the Citroen I had ordered. At first, I was a bit nervous of driving a bigger car on France’s narrow roads, but he very confidently assured me, “you can do it!” So off to tackle Paris traffic we went.

Like driving anywhere new, the first 10-15 miles was SUPER stressful especially as we are faking our way through the French signs using my Spanish and Google. But, luckily, once we got the hang of it, we made it safely out of the city and onto the highway, which just like Florida, has many speeding cars and big trucks that command attention.

HM served as chief navigator. Due to weird GPS coordinates we had to manage we had one fail, and ended up in someone’s yard instead of our inn, but on try #2 we got it right. Of course, getting lost produces unplanned adventures, especially when you don’t have a strict schedule.

We couldn’t resist pulling over in the French countryside to try to capture some of the beauty we were experiencing. The “rapeseed” fields are in full bloom and they are glorious. They produce a really bright yellow flower that just puts a smile on your face. As we understand it, this plant is mainly cultivated to make vegetable oil.

Thank goodness for French Wal-Mart.

Apparently the French aren't as hung up with a zillion
food laws like we are. This display of fresh eggs was in the
regular food aisle.

Meat locker or bathroom?
You decide.

Just like in Wal-Mart in the States,
we got sidetracked wanting to take
one of these VERY cute Easter decorations
home!

Because of our unplanned side trip and our early morning start, we soon had to make a bathroom pit stop. We were literally in the middle of nowhere but we found Super U. This was a marvelous place similar to a mini Walmart. After inquiring several times if there was a “toilette” we kept being directed to the front of the store. We finally realized there was a key for their facilities and that these were not really in the store, but outside. Essentially, it looks like they converted an old meat locker into a one-stall bathroom! Desperate at this point, we knew beggars can’t be choosers and into the meat locker WC (water closet) we went.  And if you’re wondering -- it was not great, but not the worse I’ve seen either, and HM says it was better than the bullet train, let’s just leave it at that.

Reaching Giverny required navigating 
signs and towns like this.

Our maison away from home.

Lion, bear or Flaubert?

By 1pm we pulled up to our maison away from home for the next two days – La Reserve (http://www.giverny-lareserve.com). We knew we had picked the right spot for us the moment we stepped out of the car and a giant bear / lion disguised as a dog came to greet us. We soon found out this creature’s name was Flaubert. Named after a famed French author, HM was convinced our hostess said Flaubert’s name was Flubber and indeed, one can see how the error can be made. Flaubert is a full-on, over-sized mush. 

After greeting us, Flaubert immediately
asks to be let in at the kitchen door.

Automne was the cutest. Reminded VM of HM
when she was that age, including her haircut
and nonstop chatter!

Next, we were greeted by our hostess, who happens to also be named Valerie, and her daughter and granddaughter, who were visiting from the north of France. Like Flaubert, Valerie’s 17-month-old granddaughter, Automne (Autumn), wrapped us around her pinky right away. She is little person on the go with tons of personality and the most beautiful blue eyes. Sweet as sweet can be.

And to round out this awesome welcoming committee, all of the sudden we saw a white streak trot by – the maison’s cat had come to investigate. With shining amber eyes, she kept her distance at first but then decided we could befriend her. We learned her name was Mouche which means “fly’ as she darts here and there and everywhere.

La Reserve is situated off-the-beaten-path, surrounded by fields. We haven’t had time yet to visit the donkeys, cows, goats and chickens on the property, but we will tomorrow. This old maison has lovingly been restored by our proprietor and has a bohemian air about it, with mismatched furniture styles, beautiful art and plants everywhere. It is high-end but not stuffy. Everything just works together and invites you to relax.

HM & Mouche became fast friends.

All around La Reserve there are sweet touches.

Needless to say, we are in heaven at La Reserve. This is our kind of spot.

After getting settled in, we headed in town to Giverny to find a bite to eat. Just 1.5 miles down the hill from us, Giverny’s claim to fame is that it was Monet’s inspiration and home for forty-three years, from 1883 until his death in 1926. While here, he was in his “heyday.” And unlike Rembrandt, he lived large successfully.

It is here that he produced some of his most known works including those of the lilies. While here, many artists came to visit him and work here.

Hotel Baudy was a gathering spot
for artists during Monet's time.

This is not a bustling town, but upon our guidebook’s recommendation we chose the Hotel Baudy for lunch. It was where Cezanne and others would stay when they would come visit Monet. I had to indulge in some French cheese right away and HM got some French onion soup. In honor of JM and his love of all things lamb, I chose lamb brochette with grilled veggies for lunch and HM, of course, chose a steak! Both were good.

Monet's home leaves you wondering how couldn't you be inspired?

Fortified, we went on to explore Monet’s house. While you can’t see all of it, the part you can see is supposedly pretty much as it was when he was here. We’re pretty sure we could’ve hung with Monet. His eclectic tastes and shabby chic stylings are right up our alley. From his yellow dining room to his blue and white kitchen with gorgeous copper cooking pots, we loved it all.

And the gardens are spectacular. Because we visited late in the day, we were lucky because we could spend time in his famous garden with a smaller amount of interlopers. HM and I agreed it was really easy to see how Monet was inspired day after day in this beautiful place. The water lilies, the bridge, the tweeting birds and the whispering willows make an irresistible combination.

Claude and us definitely have the same design aesthetic.

Monet's parlor is pretty much as he left it. The paintings are replicas, but some of his
original works are featured in the Giverny museum.

Loved, loved, loved the yellow dining room!

The gardens are typically at their best at summer, but we found
them to be incredible even now.

The following images capture the bridges, willows and lily pads that make

up a large part of Monet's most well-known work. Easy to see why he never tired of 

painting them.

Tomorrow is a down day for us, just hanging around this area and resting. Surrounded by our wonderful menagerie in this beautiful spot, we are happy either way!

RANDOM PIC OF THE DAY

Mouche knew who her peeps were!