Thursday, April 25, 2019

Day 13: Au Revoir to the City of Lights


Observation of the Day: Paris’ spring weather has a bit of an identity crisis similar to Amsterdam. When we arrived last Friday, it was 80 degrees and as we depart it is 60 degrees. The result is interesting as you see people in the city and on the Metro who are either dressed for the tundra or for the beaches!

VM & HM: Today was the last day of ‘cation and our last day in Paris. On Wednesday night, we readied our bags so we could make the most of our day and evening today. We began our day savoring our yogurts, fruit and baguette and then headed out around 9:30am. We had saved today to visit one museum we had seen before – the Musée d'Orsay -- and one we had not – the Musée de l'Orangerie. Both museums are close to each other, only a short walk across the River Seine.

Not fancy, but a nice
reminder of our beautiful,
flower-filled visit.
Before we mapped ourselves to the Orangerie, we made a side trip to visit an old Parisian jeweler named H. Gringoire (https://www.h-gringoire.fr/en). While in Giverny, I had purchased a ring from my hostess at La Reserve as she keeps a makeshift vintage market in her maison. She casually mentioned that the ring was from a Parisian jeweler but she didn’t know much about it. It wasn’t fancy, but it did seem to be solid silver. She sold it to me for 10EU (about $11) and off I went with my treasure. Upon inspection of the ring, HM & I saw the stamp for the jeweler and became intrigued to visit their store & see if they knew any of the ring’s history.

Apparently Macron was
getting ready to talk about his
reform plans after months of
"yellow vest" protests.
The store is in a nice part of Paris, and the Metro ride and short walk afterwards took us by the President’s home, the Palais Elysses, and some gorgeous high-end boutiques. Not sure if Macron was around or not, but we there was a heavy police presence around the surrounding area.
We arrived at H. Gringoire at 10am when their web site said they opened. At first, we thought this was not going to be the case, but I suspect some cameras were watching us as a young lady came to unlock the door although none of their merchandise was displayed yet. Upon explaining our mission, she promptly called up the store manager, Marina. We became fast friends when we told her we were from Florida as she apparently spends quite a bit of time in Palm Beach. Upon explaining the story of my ring, her first reaction was that it was not from their store as they work now only in gold and jewels. But when we showed her the stamp within the ring, she and the young assistant both raised their eyebrows in unison and agreed it was indeed from their store.
H. Gringoire goes way back in Paris until 1880 and Marina felt this ring definitely was way before her time with the store. That said, she was intrigued with its origin and asked the assistant to take pictures so that they could inquire its providence. I left her my email and phone so maybe someday soon we’ll know where it came from! Regardless, I love the ring and Marina said that she could most definitely say it was a steal at 10EU!
Place de la Concorde is right
in the heart of Paris.
We walked around the Place de la Concorde, an area where we had miraculously not been before in all our travels through Paris! The Place de la Concorde is one of the major public squares in Paris. It is located in the city's eighth arrondissement, at the east end of the Champs Elysees. 
We reached the Orangerie by around 10:30amish and were grateful we had bought our tickets online. It has been our experience over and over again that this is the way to go so you avoid havoc at the entrance of these popular places. The Orangerie is right next to the Tuileries Gardens we had visited on Monday and has a collection of impressionist and post-impressionist paintings.  But we were really there to see the Monets!
No words.
The museum has two oval galleries which house some of Monet’s most gorgeous water lilies works which he titled Les Nymphes. They are GINORMOUS and simply breathtaking. HM and I felt even more drawn to these works as we had just spent time in the gardens that inspired them! We absolutely love them. And it goes without saying that Monet was a master. His command of stroke, texture and use of color are mind-boggling.

Had to take a picture with my favorite
willows.
The Orangerie also has other incredible works from guys like Renoir, Cezanne, Gaugin and Picasso. It is interesting to see how much these contemporaries influenced each other’s work.

Fun to see school groups being inspired at the Orangerie.
And really cool to see artists at work.
  
 
D'Orsay is a in a beautiful old train station
which we reached crossing the "love locks" bridge.



 






Afterwards, we next took the short walk across the Pont des Arts bridge to the d’Orsay. This bridge is also known as the “love locks” bridge as for years people have been coming here to leave a lock on the Seine River. It has been an issue for the city as it compromises the bridge and it is our understanding they now take the locks off every few months. It is still fun to see.
As before, we loved seeing the great works at d’Orsay plus admiring the museum’s venue as it’s housed in a former railway station built between 1898 and 1900. It is really beautiful.

A favorite of VM's last time we visited d'Orsay,
we were excited to see she is still proudly displayed.
Degas' stunning ballerina!
  

Couldn't visit the Van Gogh in Amsterdam,
but still love his works!
Monet never ceases to amaze.




And Renoir is not far behind.
This is HM's favorite.

We both loved this turkey portrait by Monet,
made us think of JM out on the chicken farms.
 
The Florida juice growers should
make this happen in the U.S.!
Having our fill of art and the crowds, we took the Metro for two last errands – buying a suitcase because our new summer wear was taxing our bags and for some last-minute souvenirs. We also had to stop for just one more fresh-pressed orange juice. It is sooooo good.

Heading to the metro new bag in tow!
We finished organizing all our bags, freshened up and headed out for our last dinner. HM had made reservations at a restaurant she had found out about through a YouTuber she follows. It is called Monsieur Bleu and in addition to good food, has incredible vistas of our favorite – the Eiffel Tower. However, upon arrival we found out we had been trumped by none other than Jean Paul Gaultier, a famous French designer. Apparently, they were having a last-minute private event for him and the restaurant says they tried to reach us to change our reservation but had been unsuccessful. 

A very apologetic and beautiful manager immediately booked us into a sister restaurant based near the Louvre and the Tuileries Gardens named LouLou (https://loulou-paris.com). While at first disappointed with the unexpected change, the meal was delicious and the restaurant was beautiful. And best of all, we finished at around 9:45pm and were able to walk right out the door to the gardens to a private showing of the 10pm Eiffel Tower “sparkles.” It was a perfect ending to a perfect ‘cation.

Cheering a beautiful girl on a
beautiful journey.

We are both grateful for the opportunity to return to this beautiful city and to explore new places in France and the Netherlands. We are also grateful everything went as planned with no mishaps. While we missed not having our partners in crime, JM and EM, for this journey, it was nice to have some mommy / daughter time to explore, learn, play and best of all, laugh together. Au revoir until our next adventure! 


We didn't want to go inside, but the Louvre is just as pretty
at night as during the day.

Feeling blessed.


Random Pics of the Day

We were disappointed not to meet any canine friends
again this time in our Melrose Place-like courtyard,
but this sweet gal provided our feline fix on our last day!

Even the train stop at d'Orsay museum features
a gorgeous Monet & work stations for commuters.

Throughout our Paris adventures,
we have run into many couples capturing
some beautiful wedding images in the city of love.































































Wednesday, April 24, 2019

Day 12: We Know Why the Peasants Revolted





Observation of the Day: The early bird gets the palace, gardens, golf cart, & cold!

HM & VM: Another early alarm jumpstarted our day as we got dressed and packed for a mini outing to the Palace & Gardens of Versailles, the principal royal residence of France from 1682, under Louis XIV, until the start of the French Revolution in 1789, under Louis XVI. For HM, the gardens were another item on her bucket list & she was enthusiastic to adventure there (even with the early wake up call), whereas a more ambivalent VM was just along for the ride. 

Just a quaint little spot...NOT.
We grabbed the Metro to the train station and boarded our train by 7:30am. Upon arrival, we were both hit with a startling revelation when we exited the train in Versailles—it was significantly colder than Paris has been & we were both dressed for the summer. VM, slightly more practical than HM, wore jeans but a light t-shirt, while HM had picked a sleeveless & pantless romper—BIG mistake. And due to the early hour, not a store in sight was open. So shivering we went.

It pays to arrive early. We practically had
the place to ourselves.
The large Versailles palace you see
in pictures is just half a mile from
this train station.
Versailles is only a forty-minute train ride from Paris. In addition, the Palace of Versailles is only a quick half-mile walk from the train station. In fact, we were both surprised to find out the face of the Palace is encompassed by the town of Versailles, which contradicts the images presented in many depictions of Versailles and, more importantly for HM, Epcot’s Impressions de France. Fortunately, we soon found the iconic Versailles images we were familiar with were at the back of the palace & its surrounding gardens—& it’s as beautiful as we both expected. 




Because of our early morning start & indifference to visit the inside of the Palace (while it may sound pretentious, we have seen many lavishly gilded old places before), we were able to experience the gardens & back of the Palace just as the kings did so many years ago -- we virtually had the place to ourselves. 


Although an overcast day, you can still see how splendid
the Versailles gardens are!
The view towards the palace from down below.

Welcome to my crib!



 At 10am, we were able to pick up a golf cart, complete with a GPS-triggered British narration, which allowed us to enjoy the entire estate, its gardens & surrounding sites in a fun, efficient manner. However, before we could start our self-guided tour, we needed sustenance. Also, as was noted before, HM was still freezing. 

I knew I'd like this spot as soon as I saw these
fabulous cement tiles!
Because we were already on Versailles grounds, our restaurant options were limited & paralleled theme park prices, but we decided it was worth the expense. We found a quaint French bistro that served warm Irish coffee & the most expensive Coca Cola you will ever find (although HM defends it was the best sodas she has had the entire trip.) 

HM sporting her shawl &
channeling her inner Marie Antoinette
in front of her residence!
By this point, the souvenir shop had opened & HM went off to find a sweatshirt while VM got another coffee. VM had just set out to find HM when she turned the corner, & found HM styling a new leopard print shawl, apparently channeling her inner Marie Antoinette, as the gift shop didn’t have any sweatshirts. VM nearly fell to the ground with laughter at the sight. 

We continued our tour of the gardens moving at a snail’s pace as the golf cart had two speeds: slow and slower. We got another case of the giggles as we very much felt we were like all the people we see going around Disney on electric scooters or in a famous Seinfeld episode with George. That’s about as fast as we were moving. For safety’s sake, we’re sure it was done on purpose, but it was still comical. 

Along our route, we stopped to watch one of Versailles’ well-known musical fountains, where the water dances to classical tunes. While we really enjoyed the show, the best part was the little mama duck-like bird we encountered. First, she seemed unfazed by the show itself, next, we noticed she was swimming right towards the center of it, with a wood stick in her bill, as she was building her nest at the very center of the fountain. She was adorable to us although I’m not sure anyone else even took note of her. She made our day (see pics below of our feathered friend.)



About midday we returned the golf cart and headed out. We were again thankful for sacrificing some sleep to avoid the crazy crowds.

Was VERY HAPPY to avoid these crowds.

We headed back to Paris and spent the rest of our day picking up some souvenirs and enjoyed our neighborhood gastro-pub for dinner. It was a nice ending to our lovely day.

Random Pics of the Day



Mama was unimpressed with the show as it started.

She then valiantly swam, stick in mouth,
to her mid-fountain nest.


After placing her stick, she stood throughout much of
the fountain show
.

And then finally decided it was time to sit!






















Day 13: Au Revoir to the City of Lights

Observation of the Day:  Paris’ spring weather has a bit of an identity crisis similar to Amsterdam. When we arrived last Friday, it was 8...